Elite Herringbone - Prime Collection
Inspired by THE CAVES
AN IDEAL SPACE FOR THE CONNECTION BETWEEN HUMANS AND NATURE
Caves provide a unique environment that is both dark and mysterious, yet also calming and peaceful. The darkness of the cave can help to create a sense of stillness and tranquility, allowing one to connect with the natural world in a more meaningful way. The cool, damp air of the cave can also provide a sense of comfort and relaxation, allowing one to feel more connected to the earth.
INSTALLATION PROCESS
PREPARE THE SUB FLOOR:
- Concrete slab - Check the slab to see that it is properly constructed and thoroughly dry. Check for unevenness, grind off high spots, and use filling compound for low case.
- Plywood subfloors - It should be at least 3/4" thick and nailed down well. Tough standing may be required at joints to even out surface. Where the subfloor is too uneven, apply 3/8" plywood underlayment.
- Board subfloor (up to 6' square edged) - They require good nailing. If uneven, boards may require standing. Nail 3/8" plywood underlayment on boards.
LAYOUT OF THE ROOM:
1. Check the room for squareness, measure the diagonals of the room. If they are equal, the room is square.
2. Herringbone is, at best, a difficult pattern to put down. Two things must be considered when deciding on the orientation of the Herringbone pattern.
a. The long dimension of the room.
b. The pattern running to the major architectural interest point oof the room, like the main entrance, window wall, or a fireplace.
3. Pre-plan your working lines. It is usually best to center your first line along the orien-tation of the pattern. This is called the "centerline." Plan the layout
START INSTALLING FLOORING AT
INTERSECTION OF ALL WORKING LINES.
(The selected center point of a Herringbone unit will be along the centerline.)
1. Place the first piece of flooring. The tongue edge of the piece should face the far wall, with the tongue edge along the starter diagonal. The left corner of piece#1 should be all lined with the intersection of the reference line and baseline.
2. Place the second piece. This piece must be perpendicular to the first piece. Use a small carpenter's square to ensure precise alignment. These two piece determine the squareness of the entire installation. After a piece has been placed in the mastic, there can be minor adjustments in alignment by tapping the piece with a rubber mallet or similar non-marring instrument.
3. Continue placing the pieces in the order. Continue with the pattern until reaching the far wall. Then work the pattern to the right, one row at a time, alternating the direction of the flooring. (Always orient the tongue in the same direction.) Start each row carefully. Use the square to align the starting piece on each row and periodically check alignment. Leave piece that fit along walls as the last step.
4. Upon completing the upper right quadrant, go back to the intersection of the working lines and complete the upper left quadrant one row at a time. Carefully align the first piece of each row and periodically check alignment with the carpenter's square. Alternate the direction of the flooring in to the work area. Store it on areas already completed.
5. Continue in the two remaining areas. Start at the centerline and continue working the pattern backwards. When installing the pattern backwards it is easiest to maintain alignment by coming back with double rows. The first double row back into the lower left and right quadrant will be aligned with the reference line. After completing the first double row, continue installing two rows at a time until reaching the left wall. Finish lower right quadrant in the same manner, working from center too walls.
6. Cut pieces to within 3/4 " of the walls. This 3/4" is expansion space. Fir flooring into doorways where it is to butt against other flooring, or against a reducer strip. Leave ./4" expansion space around masonry structures, such as a fireplace. (This void can be filled with a solid piece of crok and stained).
7. Use spot cork blocking around the perimeter of the room between the flooring and the walls, to allow the flooring to expand and contract. (Do not use flooring scraps).
Do's
Vacuum or broom the laminate floor to keep it away from loose dirt and dust.
Wipe up spills like tea, coffee immediately.
For heavier cleaning, use Ego laminate floor cleaner or a mixture of household vinegar and water (1-cup vinegar to 1-gallon warm water) or household ammonia and water (1/2 cup ammonia to 1-gallon warm water).
The worst stains can be removed with acetone or denatured alcohol on a soft cloth without bleaching or damaging the floor. In a pinch, nail polish remover containing acetone is a handy substitute.
Protect the laminate flooring in high traffic areas and from excessive tracking of outside dirt and soil with mats at all entrances. Use door mats and throw rugs outside room entrances and in front of kitchen sink and refrigerator to help keep dirt and grit off your floor, and to prevent damage and excessive wear.mmonia-based cleaners.
Protective felt pads on chair and furniture legs are recommended to further protect the floor. Replace plastic casters on chairs with rubber wheels and lift rather than slide heavy objects across the floor.
Dont's
Don’t allow water to stand on your floor for any length of time.
Do not wax or refinish your laminate floor.
Do not use soap or detergent-based cleaners, wax-based products or any type of polish on laminate floors, bleach, oil, soaps, as they leave a dull, filmy residue.
Do not scrape the floor to remove the things stuck to your floor, such as gum or candle wax. This situation is best handled by letting the spot harden completely, then scraping it gently off the floor with a plastic scraper. Residue can then be removed using a clean rag damped with a little Ego Laminate flooring cleaner.
